Landscapes


7
Jan 12

It’s winter out there after all – a Zhivago-esque moment

Well, the weather over here so far hasn’t lived up to the expectations of a photogenic winter – we keep having rains and temperatures slightly above 0°C – no snow yet.

How nice it is to be able to reach the winter within an hour drive – yesterday, the Bavarian alps were still experiencing remnants of that winter storm Andrea that hit Germany on Thursday. A lot of fresh snow, allowing this intimate photo of a mountain hut near Unterammergau.

Zhivago-esque mountain hut in snow

 


2
Jul 11

How to: photograph lightning (at night)

Lightning

Lightning photography seems either extremely easy, or extremely hard: When the thunder god is willing to show his best side, all you need is a camera and a tripod and some patience. If not, it seems impossible to get a single image with a lightning visible in any corner of the frame.

Until last month I was strictly subscribed to the latter – I had tried but never made any lightning photo the subject was clearly visible in. This changed when Thor (or pick your favorite one from the Wikipedia List Of Thundergods) showed his muscles as I hadn’t seen before…

The theory to take an image like above is rather easy:

  1. Put the camera on a steady tripod.
  2. Put it into Manual exposure mode (that’s the M, you heard correctly ;-) )!
  3. Decide on an exposure time that will be long enough to get some lightning in there – you will press the shutter *before* you see a lightning… I chose 10 seconds here. 30 might do as well, depending on the amount of ambient light. You want your photo to be all black when taken without lightnings’ light.
  4. Lightning is very very bright, but it will vary greatly depending on rain and distance. Ideally, you have none or at least not heavy rain. In addition,  you can decide to get only the brightest lightnings correctly exposed, and have the weak ones underexposed. I started with setting the ISO to 100 (or “low” on a Nikon), and closed the aperture down to 8, and later adjusted it to 11 when I saw I was still getting some overexposed images.
  5. Take a test image to check the exposure without lightning.
  6. Make sure the focus is on the foreground you framed. Focus manually and turn off autofocus. It won’t work in the pitch black night anyway, and slow down every shutter release.
  7. And now comes the hard part – if you are lucky, your camera supports an automatic interval timer like my D300 does. Else, you will need a cable release with that feature, or do manual clicks all night long.  Use the interval timer to repeat taking exposures until your flash card is full or the thunder is gone.
    I set my Nikon to do 500 images with a gap of 1 second (the smallest possible). Thus, I would expose 10 seconds, then the camera would wait for a second, and then shoot the next 10 second image. So I could make sure I would have 91% of all lightning on my sensor within the framed part of the sky.
  8. For this image, I did not take a wide angle but rather a mild telelens (100 mm on a 1.5x crop camera here). I chose a pleasing (well, you might recognize the building from my earlier teleconverter tests) foreground and framed a part of the night sky where I hoped the lightning would occur, and waited…

The fun part is harvesting the results after the thunderstorm. This one lasted a full three hours, and I kept adjusting the part of the sky I was photographing to the slowly moving “hot spot” of lightning as the clouds were moving as well. The exposure time of 10 seconds allowed to aggregate multiple smaller lightnings into one frame like in the image above.

“Depending on the storm, lightning flashes can last for several hundred milliseconds and contain dozens of strokes each occurring approximately 40 milliseconds apart.” (lightningtrigger.com)

Statistics? Well, I took 303 images, of which 247 showed no sign of lightning at all. 23 were lit by lightning not in the frame or just barely being visible (for those tiny lightnings, the aperture was closed too much). Another 18 showed more promising lightning strikes which were either under- or overexposed, or were just at the border of the frame. This left me with 15 rather decent lightning images.

Of those, I really liked the spectactular above and this one:

So the next time you meet the Thunder God, enjoy the digital age, make sure to have a tripod with you and just shoot away! But stay safe and out of the danger area – read through the safety tips by the NWS before you decide to give it a try! I made these photos through a window from the safety from my home!

If you wonder how our grandfathers did this without the blessing of digital images, have a look at this great page at weatherscapes, with more info on the different type of thunderstorms and more. And if you are looking into daytime lightning photography, you will have to invest in more gear (oh joy!) and have a look at a lightning trigger (more great information about lightning photography there as well!).


2
May 11

How to fix hot pixels in the Olympus E-P1 Pen

Yellow rapeseed with a dark sky, thunderstorm approaching

When coming back from last weekend’s landscape tour, I knew I had a keeper with me: The brilliant yellow field of rapeseed with a dark blue sky of a passing thunderstorm makes for a simple, but really effective landscape image. Rule simplify for better photos applied at its best. Nothing special, but I certainly like looking at it again.

And suddenly, I saw it: A hot pixel. Hot pixels (or stuck pixels) can occur on any image sensor, and usually get mapped out in the camera – after the mapping, the pixel or subpixel will no longer contribute to the final image, and the value for it will be interpolated from its neighbouring pixels. So what really is a hardware defect, even if its a small one as there are 11,999,999 other pixels left, gets corrected in software. It is not very dramatic as well, but once you see it you see it in every picture – and reviewing older photos it got stuck already a month ago, and therefore is on all photos I took since then with the Pen.

Here is a 100% crop of the image above with the hot pixel in all it’s beauty:

An image showing a white stuck hot pixel at 100% magnification

Panic! I will need the camera for my vacation in 4 weeks! If I send it in, how long will Olympus need for the repair?

I wrote an email to the Olympus support (it’s di.support@olympus-europa.com in Europe, in case you need it) asking where to send it to. I confess, I have underestimated the Olympus engineers. Won’t do it again, promised. It is Nikon who asks to send the body in for such a fix.

Olympus support replied within 90 minutes of opening their hotline on Monday morning, and politely hinted I should try the “pixel mapping” function. Blush. Ok, RTFM – the camera already has the self-healing function built it. I triggered it using the procedure as described in the camera’s manual on page 129 – menu button, “gears” menu, sub-item I, function Pixel Mapping. Some seconds wait, problem gone!

Kudos, Olympus!


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