Did it work? Well, yes and no. Despite adding the Olympus E-P1 Pen to my gear which produces fairly large RAW files, I have photographed (and kept) pictures worth of 94 GBytes in 2010, after 96, 73, and 96 in 2007, 2008, and 2009 respectively.

How come I need ~96 GBytes a year for the third year now? Strange, but at least I exhibit a somewhat consistent, or even linear, behavior

Here is the graph plot of my disks getting filled over the last 7 years:

Wondering how your byte photography trend is? Check out my download section with a script that can calculate the data for a plot as above. Let us know about the results here in the comments!

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So, I am always optimistic and working in software development myself I know errors like this can happen and there is a good chance that the vital feature removed from Nikon View – namely the “include subfolders” checkbox in the “Export to JPG” dialog – had been spotted by Nikon designers and added back in.

Long story short: Has not happened. The export dialog is still the same old (useless) one from the version 1.0 of ViewNX, so I wonder why that major upgrade – certainly not because of the gray color of the interface?

The press release boldly claims “ViewNX 2 makes everything easier and smoother”, but for my part they missed the critical part  that would allow me to continue using the software *and my D300* – I had gotten used to shoot RAW only – the way I like.

Regular readers will remember I by now have discontinued the use of ViewNX in favor of the commercial package Photo Mechanic – and I can only recommend you do have a look at that as well if you are still stuck with ViewNX!

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1. Nikon ViewNX and Workflow – some thoughts
2. Decision made: Photo Mechanic instead of Lightroom!

Oh, I had feared you would ask – sorry for that extended break again. Now that the football world cup is over, more time for the important things in life remains, like updating my blog Promise!

A lot actually has happened since my last post, and I will need some time (yes, I know, if I am ever able to…)  to catch up, with my existing posting ideas turning into articles.

One of the major decisions I have made some weeks ago is to actually abandon Photoshop Elements for most purposes – a software I have used since version 2.0 when it was still called Photoshop Album – for something better. And of course, like everybody else not using a Mac (those also have the choice of Apple’s Aperture) I had considered Adobe Lightroom as the natural next thing to turn to. So when Adobe released the Lightroom 3.0 beta version, I gave it yet another try and installed it on my machine, to find out if I would like it this time. My first experiments two years ago ended with me not purchasing it, because Lightroom actually lacked many of the features I had come to like in Photoshop Elements back then.

Concurrently, I thought why not follow a tip I got on a workshop last fall by some fellow photographer who is actually a Lufthansa airline pilot and who recommended Photo Mechanic from Camera Bits, a tool seemingly known and used mostly by pro-photographers. Thinking, “Hey, this guy is a pilot, so he sure must like stuff that works and gets a job done!”, I downloaded and installed Photo Mechanic, and tried it concurrently with Lightroom for the image downloading and selection of a few photo shoots back in May.

To put it into perspective: Photo Mechanic is a pure photo downloading, browsing, and tagging/keywording application. That’s where the functionality stops. It is not a RAW converter, and has no image editing capabilities. In that, it is much more like the tandem of Nikon ViewNX and Nikon TransferNX you get for free when you buy a Nikon DSLR. The troubles I had with Nikon ViewNX I had blogged about earlier, and was starting to turn away from this combination as well.

“So what happened?”

From day one, I started using Photoshop Mechanic for my real “work”, instead of Nikon ViewNX. I had had the intention to merely test it, but I just never went back to my old tools. Hmmm. Does tell something, doesn’t it?

“And Lightroom?”

Yes, I forced myself to test it as well. I did, and though I had taken some classes on Lightroom previously on various occasions, and had a good grip on the software and its capabilities, it didn’t do the job for me as effortlessly and unobtrusively as Photo Mechanic. Instead of going into detail why, I for my part don’t think the selection of a software is a rational decision only – just like the selection of a camera body or a lens requires the real tactile feedback, the software has to feel like the right tool for the job at hand.

One point that certainly made a strong point for Photo Mechanic is the ridiculously low computing power requirement of the software. Mostly probably because it is exactly not a RAW converter, and since my lesson learned I always shoot JPG+RAW together, so I rely on Photoshop CS3 for the RAW conversion should I start image editing.

“Why is this important? Just get a faster machine!”

Well, for one, I did make a decision to spend money to buy stuff that makes me produce better photos, and just a new computer with more GHz and GByte will not do this for me. And secondly, looking forward I know I will need to get a Netbook for traveling soon, and as these are pleasantly cheap and pleasantly light by now, I have no intention to revert to a heavy and costly laptop for during-the-trip image downloading, selection and tagging (oh – you see my case now?).  Photo Mechanic actually made me feel I just got a new PC, it is so much faster than Nikon ViewNX. And I am running this on a 2003 Dell. If it runs on that, it will run on the Netbook as well.

“Well, that’s not a fair comparison – Lightroom is meant to run on modern PCs!”

Never said this was a fair comparison – I am just reporting what works for me at this time, and maybe to encourage you – if you are facing the same decision I did – to consider also non-mainstream solutions for yourself, maybe they fit you better, as they did fit me!

“Can you show me this ‘wonderful’ software?”

Sure I can! Here are some screenshots of the software in production at my place, but I want to encourage you to go to Camera Bits website – they of course have a fully functional trial version as well!

Here is a look at the thumbnail contact sheet view:

There is of course a larger single view as well:

This can do comparison views, in horizontal and vertical, locked and unlocked (surpassing ViewNX in this):

And the IPTC dialog looks very raw, but has many useful features:

It does support GPS as well, though I won’t change my GPS workflow using Geosetter for this, it is useful to be able to pop up the window with the Google Maps embedded:

“Hey, you must be kidding! This ain’t pretty!”

As said before, it works for me. Your mileage may vary

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In case you are having the same thoughts, I have made the script I used to calculate that statistic available on the newly created download page at Alpenglow.info as freeware. I’m interested in feedback, so please give it a try and let me know if it works for you!

So here is the result of running the statistics script on my NAS:

Oh – positive suprise! The aggregated disk space curve actually flattens roughly mid-2009, despite my fears of faster image data growth after I had upgraded the camera to more Megapixels and Megabyte per image. What is the explanation? Well, it’s actually two:

1. I did not have as much time for my hobby as I did before, and definitely did less photo shoots and excursions since then. I am inclined to change that again, and the next workshops are already booked
2. I definitely improved my workflow: Instead of importing the JPEGs into Photoshop Album, keywording and assigning the 1-5 star rating in there (usually keeping even the 1 star images), I rather go through the images using the RAW viewer Nikon ViewNX first, and use the “1″ key (which assigns a red category marker) for those images that are definitely not worth keeping. After I have made one pass through the images, I immediately use the filter selector to select all red category images, and delete them from the disk. Phew!

Now the one real challenge is to flag as many images for deletion as possible. And I definitely got better at this, being more critical towards my own images and recognizing when images will not be suitable for presentation and thus don’t satisfy my own quality criteria (and have no nostalgical value yet )  – to say it with the words of Florian Möllers, a workshop leader I once had the pleasure to experience on a nature photography course in the Bavarian Forest national park (I think to remember that Florian himself was quoting the late Fritz Pölking – please make sure to pay Fritz’ website a visit, there is definitely a wealth of information about nature photography there):

Tapfer sein! (Be courageous!)

Which translates to: Delete those images! Get rid of them immediately! There will be better days, and better photos!

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1. Move to Texas?
2. How many bytes do you photograph?

I was missing about 5000 images I had taken in 2009 and 2010 from the archive. Not because Photoshop Elements somehow lost them, but because they actually never made it into the catalog – me being lazy. After I had had such a good grip on keywording the last 5 years, what had happened?

Well, the switch from the D70 to the D300 back in mid-2008 rendered the Nikon software I had purchased for about 150€, Nikon Capture 4.4, useless. I was to upgrade to CaptureNX, which I did give a test run but found it to be too different from Capture 4.4 to consider an immediate upgrade back then – I wanted to have another (probably my 3rd or 4th) look at Adobe Lightroom.

So I reverted back to use the Nikon View software that Nikon ships with its cameras, and upgraded this to the ViewNX 1.0 (up to 1.5 since then) so it could understand the D300′s RAW images. I found some very nice improvements in ViewNX over the original Nikon View (e.g. it keeps the 100% zoom when paging through images), so I changed my workflow to include ViewNX. Why didn’t I shoot RAW and JPG in parallel? Well, the D70 was not powerful enough to provide high quality JPGs in-camera concurrent with writing the RAW, they were of only basic quality. So this was not an option. The D300 of course could, but looking at the space requirements of the new 12 Megapixel images, I chose to keep my old workflow shooting RAW only.

What did I do different that prevented me from being diligent with my archival duties?

Well, the workflow with Nikon Capture was:

1. Import from CF card using Nikon Transfer copying into a directory within the RAW/2008 sub-directory
2. Immediately fire up Nikon Capture 4.4, and start the batch conversion to JPG on the newly imported images
3. Move the resulting JPG files over into the JPG/2008 folder hierarchy
4. Let Photoshop Elements detect the new files and import them – the JPG/2008 folder is among the watched folders of Photoshop Elements, so it will automatically offer to import them
5. Keyword the images in Elements

I tried to perform the same workflow with ViewNX, and conceptually it works just the same. But there is one subtle difference that is only required on a variant of the official workflow above, the so called “I was lazy” variant (which does happen more often than I like): I might have downloaded and browsed the images of multiple shoots before I start the keywording workflow. So the images have already been downloaded and placed into separate folders (one per shooting). Easy enough with Nikon Capture, its Tools… Batch dialog has a simple “include subfolders” checkbox which I used to let it process all folders, not just one. And there is the gotcha – Nikon ViewNX’s export function can not do that.

Now, this is really ridiculous as this requires probably only a dozen lines of source code by the programmers of ViewNX, and leaving this option away leaves those programming-illiterate out in the rain or with a huge amount of manual mouse work. Thank you, Nikon!

I have fixed my problem with a self-written Python script that performs the following actions:

1. Scan through the RAW folder, to find subdirectories that exist there but not in the JPG hierarchy. Those must be the newly transferred (or forgotten) shootings that have no equivalent in the JPG archive.
2. For each of these folders, copy all RAW files into a single processing directory. Make sure not to touch the RAW directory, as this is the original data!
3. Then the manual step: Fire up Nikon ViewNX, select all files in the processing directory, and start the export to JPG (high quality setting). Go to sleep… I have measured a conversion rate of about 150 images per hour on my trusty 2003-PC.
4. Run the script again, it will now find the JPG images created, move them into the JPG archive hierarchy, and delete the RAW images.

Two tricks used here, as we programmers tend to do:

1. I do not do a real copy of the RAW images, which would be really slow and expensive in terms of disk space, I rather use the Cygwin version of Python which can create hard links on the Windows file system using the os.link() function. This is a very quick operation that needs nearly no disk space, and ViewNX can’t see that this is “just” a hard link and will process the image as normal.
2. Second trick is to keep the original directory name of the image – remember I do copy all RAW images into a single directory for ViewNX – as a prefix to the image name, so e.g. an image called 2008/20080130_D300_Ammersee/_DSC1234.NEF would be called 2008CCC20080130_D300AmmerseeCCC_DSC1234.NEF in the processing directory, with the CCC being my carefully chosen separator assuming that no image name contains the CCC character sequence. Moving the image to JPG, those separators are detected and replaced by the approriate slahes.

Script works nicely, ViewNX is chewing on the 5000+ file RAW backlog and I will have my archive up to date again.

Lesson learned: When not in dire need of CF Card space, shoot both RAW and JPG!

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1. Nikon released ViewNX2 – another disappointment for your workflow?

Now, after steps one and two, I had my photos on disk with the GPS latitude and longitude position (and altitude) embedded within the JPG files. Specialized applications like GeoSetter would allow to open a Google Maps window at the location where the photo was taken, or offer export capabilities into Google Earth to place the photos onto the virtual globe.

But, my image archive is organized using keywords, and I usually manually tag images (add keywords) with the names of the places I have been. For instance, with a single click I can extract all images I have made in the Berchtesgaden alps area from my archive. I certainly wouldn’t want to fly around on Google Earth and virtually travel to Berchtesgaden in order to find them – so what good do those latitude / longitude coordinates do?

So, for example, I’d like the computer to automatically tag and file the following image of one of my absolute favorite places in Italy with the keywords: Italy, Tuscany, Castelnuovo dell’Abbate, Sant’Antimo.

As often today, out there the web already has the solution: Services like GeoNames, which usually are for finding the geo coordinates for a street address (something every car navigation system excels at), also offer a service which technically is called a reverse lookup: You would use this service if you know the geo coordinates of a place, but want to know the name of it. Or even the street address. And this is exactly what the photographer needs, right?

If you visit their website at GeoNames.org, you will not find the reverse lookup easily (because this is not the use case they have built their web site for). But if you technically savvy reader browse to the Download / Webservice page, you will find the documentation for the reverse geocoding services. Now, for example, we could ask the friendly site for the name of a location I had on one of my images, namely 43,049N and 11,489E. This would be coded into an URL, and you can click on this to see the answer of geonames.org: http://ws.geonames.org/findNearbyPlaceName?lat=43.049&lng=11.489

Now, don’t get scared. What you are looking at is the computerized reply of geonames.org telling you that this is a place in Italy with the name of Montalcino, home of the wonderful Rossos and Brunello red wines (Ups, it forgot to mention that! But it would, fasten your seatbelts, if we had asked the right question). But web services are really for computers to talk to each other, and not us to try to do this for the 897 photos I brought from Tuscany.

The good news is: This is how it works, and Friedemann Schmidt, the author of the GeoSetter software, has already built this function into GeoSetter!

Here is how I got the names of the places as keywords into my photos’ metadata using GeoSetter:

1. I opened the folder with the photos from step 2, and GeoSetter displayed for those that had successfully received geo-coordinates the latitude longitude pair in the thumbnails’ subtitle.
2. So, bold as I was, I again selected all photos using CTRL-A and then called the Images… Edit Data… menu item (or pressed CTRL-E ).
3. In the dialog box that popped up, GeoSetter effectively allowed to change all data points of the images. In the Location tab, it has a Get from Web and a Get All From Web button. The latter is only enabled when more than one photo is selected. Here is a screenshot of a successful run of Get From Web for a single photo:
4. So I pressed Get All From Web… and the magic started.
5. Theoretically, I would have been done here and could just press CTRL-S again to save the data GeoSetter added to the images. There were two complications, though:
   • GeoSetter lost connection to the GeoNames webservice once in a while, making the processing of such a large batch of photos a bit of a stretch. This problem can be mitigated by increasing the WebServices timeout in the File… Settings… menu item’s dialog window in the Internet tab, entry box labeled Timeout for Web Services. I increased that number to 50, which fixed the problem for me.
   • For some places, obviously GeoNames did not answer with a unique place name, but with multiple possibilities. Seems logical, as I could have been right between two cities, so how should it know? The one problem was that GeoSetter did offer the option to say Select for All, but this led to all images being assigned the one selection I had made. So if it is unsure whether an image should be attributed to Montalcino, I had to confirm it image by image, because if I pressed the Select for all button, it would take that answer also for the images where it was unsure if they were in Siena… This leads to quite some clicking when doing many images at once.
6. Now, press CTRL-S to save your work, and exit GeoSetter.

BTW, the save operation of GeoSetter does keep your original JPG file in case it screws up. It is a good idea to try out these more bleeding edge workflows only on copies of your images, not your originals! I always photograph raws, and run the geocoding on the JPGs I am creating for the image archive, so I still have the raw file in case the JPG breaks.

Done. After that, I did import the images as usual into my Photoshop Elements 5 image archive, and the tricks and hoops to jump through for that to work smoothly shall be part of another story to be told another day – maybe your favorite image archive works just as we all would envision it to work.

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1. Geotagging II – Adding GPS location data to the photos

Wow – May is over as is my vacation

Tempus fugit.

But of course I used the vacation for quite some photography, and also continued my engagement with geotagging. On our one week trip to beautiful Tuscany I had made sure to carry my Garmin Venture HC with my nearly all the time, switched on and set to record my track.

Now I downloaded and cleaned up the track just as I outlined in my previous post on geotagging, and will explain how to get the GPS information into the EXIF data of the photos!

After some searching and trial of various software packages for this, most namely the freely available gpicsync and a trial version of the commercial RoboGeo, I have settled for the also freely available GeoSetter software.

When you start up GeoSetter, the default view shows you the image browser on the left hand side, and a map window on the right hand side. This is not the optimal setup for what we are trying to achieve, so I changed my view setup by turning off the Map (for now) using CTRL-M or the respective menu entry in the View… menu, and turn on the tracks window using CTRL-T or again the menu item for this.

Now you need to locate the two data items you want to merge: In my case, I did:

1. Browse to the directory on my hard disk where all JPEG images from Tuscany reside using the Explorer-like address bar. If you do this correctly, the thumbnails of your to-be-geotagged photos will appear, and the preview window will show a bigger version of the first photo.
2. Use the Tracks window to browse to and open the GPX file with the positional track information created in the previously outlined process. You can additionally use the little checkboxes in the tracks window to turn off older waypoints or anonymous track information that you do not want to be used for geotagging. In my case, there were older waypoints in the GPS device I had used to relocate my favorite restaurants from my prior visits to Tuscany
   So here is a screenshot of GeoSetter after I opened the two data locations:

   

3. Remember my comment on making sure to synchronize the clocks between the GPS and the camera? Finally, this time I had remembered to do this by taking a photo of my GPS device while it is showing a second-accurate current time. We’ll be using this photo shortly.
4. Now I was ready to perform the real geotagging: Starting with one picture first for the cautious, or do a CTRL-A in the thumbnail view to select all photos, and press CTRL-G or call the respective menu item Images… Synchronize with GPS data file… to open up the synchronization dialog. This will take a while to show up if you do it like I did with 897 images in one run, but GeoSetter is showing a nice progress bar while it retrieves the EXIF information from all the selected images.
5. Now, this dialog is quite a beast, but don’t worry, I’ll walk you through it. What I did:
   • Selected Synchronize with Visible Tracks as we had already located the positional data we will be using.
   • Let GeoSetter Interpolate Regarding Shoot Time With Last Or Next Position, as this can improve accuracy of Geo information when the track log was not that dense (contained many data points).
   • Allowed for a maximum time difference of, let’s say, 3600 seconds. If I stayed longer that that in one place, I might have left the GPS at home
   • Used the Use Time Zone method, as I knew my camera’s time zone (no jetlag going from Germany to Italy – how convenient!), and this is the only method that will allow for the picture of the GPS device to be loaded
   • Disabled the Request Time Zone checkbox as I knew the time zone – I rather selected the correct one in the combo box available for this.
   • Checked the Add Time Zone over to Taken Date check box to have GeoSetter add the time zone information to the EXIF shooting data so the information is in there once and for all.
   • And used the Additional Time Adjustment Method as described in the following paragraph!
     So I clicked on the Adjust by Image Content… button and simply enter the time displayed on the GPS device in your photo of it into the edit fields – in my case, this led to a time correction of my camera’s time by -54 seconds. Not dramatic, but it helps to be precise once in a while.

     (Tip for this step: If you have selected the 897 images like I did and the photo of the GPS is neither the first nor the last image, better select only the image of the GPS device before pressing CTRL-G in step 4. This allows for doing this time calculation with the image, and later reuse the value found. GeoSetter makes it a bit hard to find the image of the GPS in the large image set selected).

6. That’s it! Easy, wasn’t it? We’re ready to press Ok in the large dialog displayed. For verification, here is the dialog after I had it filled out:
   
7. All images for which a corresponding data point in the track was found are now marked in red in the thumbnail view and a latitude / longitude position is displayed next to it. The red color by the way indicates unsaved changes, so after a verification that all is well we should save the result of our work (well ok, it was more the work of the software).
8. For verification of an image’s position, use the map window (turn back on pressing CTRL-M) by selecting only the image you want to find on the map, and press CTRL-Z (or use the curious looking glass icon in the map view’s button row that shows only a single exclamation mark… I found using CTRL-Z works better for me):
   
9. The final step – don’t forget to save the data! Just press CTRL-S!

By the way, for my 897 images I could automatically geo-locate only 782, and GeoSetter provided a nice warning about this. The setting of so many images at once took also a while on my old desktop machine, but if I don’t have to work myself, I’m fine with that.

But the advantages of really doing geotagging don’t stop with the display of the position where the photo was made on a map, so stay tuned…

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2. Geotagging – a renewed approach

The basic idea for geo-tagging is actually simple: If you carry a (powered on) GPS device with you while you are taking photos, and that device has any kind of track logging mechanism, you can combine the information from the GPS tracker with the photo, use a location lookup service in the Internet to find out the street address for the longitude / latitude position the GPS recorded (now that sounds awfully simple, doesn’t it?), and tag your photos (read: add keywords) with the address information for easy searchability in your image archive.

The logical connection between a photo and the GPS track can either be made by the time stamp each photo and GPS track has – given that you somehow sync the clocks of the GPS and the camera – or by a cable connection between the GPS and the camera which allows the camera itself to write the position information into the photo right when it arrives on your memory card.

As I had always only planned to do some geo-tagging, I had carried the GPS tracking device with me while taking pictures, and dutifully saved the track path data on my hard disk. I had not really prepared the data for geo-tagging, nor had I connected the GPS device and the camera itself. So I had implicitly chosen the first approach: I have photos on my hard drive with the EXIF information when the photo had been taken, and I got GPX files for my location information for many days in the past 8 years – not all of them will have accompanying photos…

The challenge to clean this mess up will be documented in a series of posts where I will outline the software I use, and the solutions I find.

So to get back into geo-tagging and GPS-device-using mood I had recorded a track last Saturday on a bike tour that was really meant to explore the bike route from my home to the Ismaninger Speichersee birding area. I did not take my camera with me this time, but let’s see how far can we get in terms of visualizing the trip.

For read out of the track data from the GPS device to the desktop computer, I am since many years using the freeware program EasyGPS from Topografix. This nice tool has the advantage of fully supporting the GPX file format for GPS data, which is XML-based and can be read and written by many different GPS-related software packages, as we will see.

So when I fire up EasyGPS:

• The only thing I do is to click on “Receive”, select the Tracks checkbox in the dialog box and click on OK. With the Garmin Venture HC I am now using and which sports a USB interface, the resulting download takes only a few seconds.
• The resulting track data is stored on disk calling File… Save… from the menu, and selecting a directory where all my GPX GPS data files reside. I use an ISO timestamp time prefix in the form 20090506-explanationOfTrack.gpx filename to allow easy sorting of the directory.

The one challenge is that the EasyGPS will always download all data from the GPS device, so if you had not cleared out the device’s memory before recording a new track, you will end up with replicate data in the new file with the last one you downloaded. We will clean that up with the second software package:

For doing anything interesting with the track data (remember, no photos yet!) I use the also freely available tool GPS-Track-Analyse.NET from gps-freeware.de. Sorry, no international translations available as far as I can see, it seems to have a German website only. But Dietmar Domin, who has developed the tool and is maintaining this web page might be able to help you as he had requests and downloads from all over the world already!

So what I do in GPS-Track-Analyse after I opened the GPX file I just saved with EasyGPS:

• Scan the list of tracks in the middle window to determine if there is old data from previous sessions in the file (because I forgot to clean the GPS device’s memory before starting the new trip), and whether the device somehow has broken up my trip into multiple pieces (which can happen when the device was turned off, or has lost satellite reception for too long).
• The stale track data I just delete by clicking on the list item with the right mouse button, and select Track löschen to get rid of it.
• The fragmented tracks can be reconnected by using the right-click menu item Verbinden, and selecting all fragments to be put into one track. I usually rely on the time information to determine if a track needs to be merged or not (I seldom have more than one track per day that should not be connected).
• After this cleanup, I do revisit the smoothness of the height data recorded and might choose to smoothen this a little bit with the Trackpoints bearbeiten… Höhenprofil glätten… menu item. This is especially important for the tracks recorded with my old Garmin eTrex – the new chipset of the Garmin Venture HC (the “H” in the product name indicates it has this new chipset) is delivering much better data for this application in every respect. If you don’t have one of the H models yet, go out and get it now! You won’t believe the improvement in terms of accuracy and speed over the old models until you see it.
• Save your work into a new GPX file. Remember, Al says <start of quote> save early, safe often. <end of quote>

The exciting part starts only now: Use the Export function to create a file with your track for Google Earth. I do select the KMZ Archive, use the speed for the color of the track and turn off the trackpoints. The application will open Google Earth with your track in all it’s beauty, and from there you can save it to a KML or KMZ file that you can share with others.

As an example, here is a map of my my 30 km bike tour from last Saturday, where we were touching (but not circling) the Ramsar area Ismaninger Speichersee.

The color shows my speed with green being slowest and red being fastest. I will spare you the legend and min/max values

To be continued…

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1. Geotagging II – Adding GPS location data to the photos
2. Geotagging III – how to associate names to the places you have been to